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Conversations With A Tortoise


Discovering what makes the Galápagos so special


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basic jones
Giant land tortoise, the Galápagos
Azure blue water, a ballet of puffy clouds, sand so white it hurts my eyes. Squinting, I scan the beach. I can see 50 seals in one direction and at least that many in the other. A hundred iguana cling to rocks along the tideline. A dozen frigate birds float overhead. Am I dreaming?

No, I’m merely taking my first trip to the Galápagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador. I don’t know why I haven’t been here before. It’s always been on my “list.” Now, sitting on this beach, I can’t believe I haven’t made it happen sooner.

What makes the Galápagos so special? It’s not the number of animals. I’ve seen far more on Africa’s Serengeti or the tundra of Alaska. But most of those animals were either wildebeest or caribou—beautiful as a herd, but difficult for me to relate to individually. Here, it’s almost impossible not to anthropomorphize the seals and iguana. And when a booby stares you in the eyes? Good god, you just stand there waiting for him to talk!

Yet it’s more than even that. Everywhere else in the world animals are deservedly wary of humans. They fly or run at your presence or, at the very least, move off to a respectful distance. Not in the Galápagos. I have to keep looking down so as not to step on an iguana or a booby. The animals simply don’t seem to care whether I’m here or not.

7 Comments

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  1. I too was very pleased w/ my recent trip to the Galapagos. Your magazine has in past articles stated future stories will take on Conservation causes which the Galapagos clearly qualifies - ie. feral cats, goats and pigs are a BIG problem for the resident wildlife. Why didn't you at least mention the situation ? The program of recovering lost populations on some of the islands needs World wide attention as they sort of represent a benchmark of mans knowledge of evolution.
  2. wow.....
  3. I read this in the mag first and was entranced. Thanks for taking me to the Galapagos with you, Dewitt! And that seal! Good grief--he looks like a Bateman painting. What's wrong with a little harmless anthropomorphizing, anyway? Thanks for a great article.
  4. Your column is inspiring. Going to the Galapagos has been on my list and my daughter's for years. I have wanted to go and be able to take incredible pictures and just ponder the marvelous creation of the Lord amidst some ancients! Guess I have been waiting to "be a good enough photographer" and my daughter just LOVES giant tortoises and lizards and the like and wants to be among them - for real. Think it's time to start planning to make it happen!!
  5. We just got back from a trip to Galapagos, and while I didn't talk to any tortoises, two of our ladies did have a game of tag with a juvenile sealion! They really are the most playful creatures!
  6. I enjoy all of Dewitt's columns, but this one was especially good. Some of my most magic moments in outdoor photography have been when an animal treats you the same way we should treat them - with respect and as part of the environment. I remember being at Yellowstone and having a bull elk a foot taller then me walk past, look at me for a second and then keep going - no fear, no aggressiveness, a simple but powerful acknowledgment of mutual respect that stays with me still. And, I remember being with a manatee in Florida that actually kept blocking me from getting back on the boat because it was not done playing. Despite the horrible detestation people have done to this endangered animal and many others, their natural instinct to share the world is a very generous gift and a magic moment for any photographer. Thanks Dewitt!
  7. I went last summer and it took a couple of days to get past the quick-click photography mode needed for most of my wildlife pictures and relax into really forming and composing an image, something the Galapagos deserves. The rewards are worth the trip.

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