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Saturday, September 1, 2007

Canyoneering


Slot canyons are among the Southwest's most iconic photographic subjects, but they require proper preparation and attention to the potential hazards


Canyoneering
When I began to turn my photographic efforts toward capturing landscape images of the American West 17 years ago, it seemed as if there was no virgin territory left. At first, I felt obliged to search out those iconic photographic overlooks from the Grand Canyon to the Grand Tetons, but I soon became frustrated as I found myself jockeying for position at even the most remote backcountry locations with hordes of other photographers. As I ventured farther and farther off the beaten path in search of new places, I began to discover locations in the West where I had the opportunity to create images where no photographer had previously deployed a tripod.

During the late 1980s, a group of friends and I turned our attention to exploring slot canyons on the Colorado Plateau, which were only accessible with the aid of climbing equipment. On these adventures, we discovered not only some of the most beautiful canyons we had ever seen, but every once in awhile, due to the lack of climbing slings, bolts or other devices left behind by previous parties, we realized that we were the first people to travel through some of these canyons. The opportunity to create photographs of subjects that had never been seen before due to the difficult access motivated me to search out and explore scores of canyons across the plateau.

Canyoneering Top: A canyoneer pulls rope down after rappelling into a canyon in Cedar Mesa, Utah. On this 105-degree day, icy pools in the depths of the canyon provided relief from the heat; Above:
A wetsuit-clad canyoneer pauses in Deception Canyon, Utah. At high noon, a shaft
of light hit the canyon floor, providing fill light to illuminate this subterranean chamber. A 50-foot-long stretch of narrows, barely wide enough to slip through sideways without a pack on, opened up into this remarkable chamber. There was no evidence anyone had passed through it before. Nikon N90s, 50mm Nikkor (CEDAR MESA), 24mm Nikkor (DECEPTION CANYON), Fujichrome Velvia, Gitzo 1228 tripod, Acratech ballhead.

Back then, there were no canyoneering guide books or Internet sites providing detailed descriptions of how to locate and navigate these remote slots, so we had to find them ourselves. During this same period, I photographed much of southern Utah from the air, and it was on these flights that I located many of the canyons. I made notes during the flights and pulled out topographical maps when I returned home to pinpoint locations. My friends and I scrutinized the maps to ascertain entry routes near their headwaters high on the mesas and plateaus.

While these canyons are shallow and relatively easy to enter in their upper reaches, they begin to cut deeper and deeper into the sandstone as you proceed downstream. At some point, the canyon floor drops off into a deep slot. These "dryfalls" represent the point of no return. Once the rope is pulled after descending into the slot, there’s no going back. The only choice is to continue down canyon where additional dryfalls will be encountered. It’s in this section of the narrow canyons, with dryfalls above and below, that the best opportunities exist for photographing previously unknown terrain.

Safety First

While some of these canyons can be traversed in one day, many require overnight trips. For these expeditions, all gear must be kept to a bare minimum in order to reduce the size of the load carried through these awkward-to-negotiate narrows. My goal is to make everything other than my camera equipment fit into a pack no larger than 2500 cubic inches. The pack is lined with a waterproof river bag to keep everything dry in the icy pools of water encountered along the canyon floor, and wetsuits are required to prevent hypothermia. On one trip through a narrow slot in Zion National Park, where the outside air temperature was 114 degrees, I remember plenty of teeth chattering even with full wetsuits as we negotiated countless water-filled potholes.

In addition to hypothermia, the other major hazard of traversing these canyons is the flash-flood threat from the monsoon thunderstorms of July and August. On average, June is typically the driest month of the year in southern Utah with the lowest threat of flash floods. Even during this typically dry month, however, no overnight trips should be considered unless the forecast calls for nothing but sun for at least three days. I recall a two-day trip in Zion where the five-day forecast promised only sunshine. The day after we exited the canyon, a flash flood killed two people along the Virgin River Narrows.





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