Photography~girl~ wrote:Bob,
thank you sooooo much!!!!!!!!!!!!!! helped a lot. With the Picture Style, i have it set as "Standard" and then within that i change stuff like sharpness and whatnot.(i also do this for monochrom.) but i leave Portrait, landscape, neutral and faithful alone.(where's the fun in letting the camera do all the work for you?)
thanx for the assignment! though one thing...with not setting my own shutter speed. i don't have a tri-pod(yet). So wouldn't it be best to go out durring the day and shoot mostly...macro? where i'll usually use a small DoF? cause the bigger f/stop number(smaller aperture), the wider DoF which means more light getting let in, which means slower shutter....correct? (if that made any sense what so ever)
and thanx for the link! i think i have shutter speed and aperture down...but still a little fuzzy on what ISO really does.(i know the higher it is, the brigher the photo, but also the higher it is, the more noise you'll prolly have) lol. I'll read it when i'm fully awake.(its midnight at the moment. lol. uploading pics. heehee.)
thanx again!
a.k
Actually when you shoot macro, you want a larger DOF to get as much in focus as possible. Because you are so close to the subject when shooting macros, it's difficult to keep very much in focus. A shallow DOF is mainly used to separate the subject from the background by making the background blur. Also, by shooting with a wide open lens, it allows your shutter speed to be as fast as possible for the available light (but dependent on your ISO settings).
Here are a couple of shots taken with a shallow DOF (f/2.8 - the widest possible setting on the lens I used).
This is a closeup of Maple with a little backlighting. I shot it with my 30D and a Canon 200 f/2.8.
By shooting at the widest setting, the background is OOF.
1/800s f/2.8 at 200.0mm iso400

I took this shot of my granddaughter with some friends with the same lens but from much farther away.
I like the way the shallow DOF almost makes the picture look 3 dimensional.
1/2000s f/2.8 at 200.0mm iso400

ISO settings are a holdover from film days when film had an ASA rating. You had daylight film that was rated as low as ASA 25 that produced brilliant colors. Of course, it also required a nice sunny day to use it since it was so slow. They also had fast film and to make it even faster, you could "Push" the ISO to the next level. For example an ASA400 film could be shot at ASA800 or ASA1200 and then you would have it developed at the pushed settings. This did make the film faster, but it also introduced more noise. That's much the way ISO setting work on sensors today. The higher the ISO setting, the faster you can shoot, but at the risk of introducing more noise. The nice thing about the newer digital cameras is that they are finding better ways to control the noise. My 30D is not nearly as good at controlling noise as a 40D or 50D, but I have shot with an ISO setting of 1000 with acceptable results.
Now get busy with your assignment and don't be too concerned about your subject. It's great to have a wonderful subject, but your assignment is to just figure out how the different f/stop settings affect your images. You should not only be changing your f/stops, but also your ISO settings to get the shutter speed you want. Be sure to shoot some indoor shots too (be sure to adjust your white balance for the lighting). This will require you to boost those ISO settings and will give you a good idea of how high you can go with your camera and still get usable images. By the time you are finished, you should have a great understanding of how your camera works.