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Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Building The Ultimate Lens Kit


There are so many top-notch, high-tech, affordable lenses available for nature photography, it’s easy to assemble a collection that will give you the right tool for what you love to do

Labels: Lenses

This Article Features Photo Zoom

lens kit
Canon TS-E 17mm Tilt-Shift
Macro Lenses
If you like to photograph flowers or bugs, you’ll want to add a macro lens to your kit. Macro lenses can focus close enough to produce a life-size image of the subject on a 35mm film frame and are optically optimized for close shooting distances.

Macro lenses come in several focal lengths. Shorter focal lengths let you move right in on a subject and still include some of the surrounding environment. Longer focal lengths produce a given magnification from farther away, handy when the subject is skittish. The longer working distance also provides more room for your lighting setup and reduces the chances that the lens will cast a shadow on the subject. (Serious macro shooters generally use electronic flash for three main reasons: It’s easily positioned anywhere you want it with today’s wireless off-camera flash feature; its brief duration at close range freezes subject and camera motion and negates the effects of wind; and it allows you to stop down for more depth of field—depth of field is very minimal at very close range.) Bear in mind that shooting from farther away also “flattens” perspective; if you want a feel of “depth” in a macro shot, it’s better to use a shorter macro lens and move closer to obtain the same subject magnification.

For even more magnification, you can attach an extension tube to your macro lens (or to any lens, for that matter). The advantages of extension tubes are that they allow you to focus even closer for more magnification, and they contain no optics to reduce image quality—they’re just spacers that increase the distance between the optical center of the lens and the focal plane. The disadvantages are a loss of light (you have to use longer exposure times or higher ISOs for ambient-light work), and the lens won’t focus out to infinity with an extension tube attached.

Many zoom lenses are touted as “macro,” but this usually just means they’ll focus closer than “non-macro” zooms of equivalent focal length. Most won’t produce better than a 1:3 (1/3-life-size) reproduction ratio. This is still good enough for a lot of semi-close-up work; just bear in mind that you won’t be doing 1:1 life-size macro work with these lenses.

lens kit
Nikon 10.5mm Fisheye
lens kit
Nikon 105mm Macro
Tilt-Shift Lenses
A number of SLR landscape photographers are using tilt-shift lenses because they provide some of the versatility of the view camera. The shift feature allows you to get an entire tall object into the frame without tilting the camera up; this, in turn, keeps the film plane parallel to the subject plane and eliminates the “falling-over-backward” look so often seen in photographs of tall trees and cliff faces. The tilt feature allows you to tilt the plane of focus for tremendous control over depth of field at any aperture.

Fisheye Lenses

While the big challenge in designing a superwide-angle rectilinear lens is eliminating distortion, fisheye lenses revel in it. Fisheyes produce a 180-degree angle of view (diagonal with full-frame fisheyes; in any direction with circular fisheyes) and lots of barrel distortion. This relegates them to the special-effects realm, but fisheye effects can produce effective landscape images. One idea might be to point the camera straight up at dusk or dawn, when one horizon glows colorfully with the rising or setting sun while the other is dark.

Circular fisheye lenses produce round images rather than rectangular ones. Full-frame fisheyes, in effect, crop a rectangle out of the circular fisheye image to fill the image frame. This produces a somewhat unsettling effect—the image frame is normal, but all straight lines that don’t go right through the center of the image will be bowed outward.

Full-frame fisheyes are available for most popular 35mm and digital SLRs. Those designed for full-frame cameras provide a true 180-degree diagonal angle of view with those cameras and an angle of around 110 degrees when attached to an APS-C D-SLR. Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Samsung and Sony offer full-frame fisheyes for their small-sensor D-SLRs, while Sigma and Tokina offer them for several brands. Four Thirds System shooters can use the Olympus Zuiko Digital 8mm ƒ/3.5 fisheye.

Today, only Sigma makes circular fisheye lenses. Its 8mm ƒ/3.5 EX DG comes in mounts for Sigma, Canon and Nikon SLRs, providing a circular image with 35mm and full-frame models. The Sigma 4.5mm ƒ/2.8 EX DC provides a circular image with a true 180-degree angle of view with APS-C D-SLRs, and comes in mounts for Sigma, Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony D-SLRs.

7 Comments

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  1. This is one of the best articles! I plan to add some of those lenses to my collection! Thanks
  2. A very good article to read! However, some of these Lens are quite expensive, and really are not for the average Amateur Photographer. I know for sure that I can't afford buying a $1 - 4,000 Lens! Just to much money. I like taking pictures of what-ever will interest me, mostly Landscapes, Flowers, and places of History will always attract my attention. I shoot a Pentax K100D DSLR with a variety of different Lens that are not real expensive, but take a pretty good Image. I use the Pentax 18-55mm Lens, a Tamron 28-80mm Lens, a 70-300mm Lens, a Phoenix 28-210mm Wide Angle Lens. I can also add my Pentax 2X Doubler, which doubles everything. I also have a "Add On" Wide Angle Lens to add to my Tamron 28-80mm Lens to give me Wide Angles. I would think that I have more than enough to take some good Images.
  3. I shoot Nikon D200 (D80) back up. Prime subject is sports (all three bike racing, sports cars and motorcycles. What three Nikon lenses would you recommend for my basics. I've tried other lenses and found only the Nikon's focus fast enoguh. I've also found I need faster lenses to achieve the shallow depth of field. Yes, I know these cost more. I'm also thinking whether I should be purchasing for full frame now. Thanks
  4. I am working on this a little at a time. So far the most versatile lens I have purchase is the 150-500mm Sigma. I use this combined with a 24-105mm Canon so in two lenses I cover a wide range 24-500mm IS f4-f6.3 I also use a quantaray 70-300mm for macro shots And a Sigma 28mm Fixed lens. I would like to add two lenses to my arsenal... a Good Macro lens such as 70-200mm IS and a nice prime 300 or 400mm telephoto. At that point I think I will be done lens shopping but then again is one ever done...
  5. To Bob Johnson. If you simply click and drag over the desired data, right click and copy, then paste into Word and do this for each "page", you can edit out the icons, etc. and keep a copy saved. I save my print copy but use this method for reference. These articles are great.
  6. When I saw your article, I went to the table to see the lenses you recommend for a Canon full-frame camera. I was surprised to see your choice of the MP-E 65mm macro lens. I say this because the 'experts' that I read e.g., John Gerlach recommends a 200 or 100 mm macro as they give more flexibility. I then looked up the MP-E and saw that it is a specialty lens, so I was wondering on the rationale for the MP-E 65 rather than, say, the 100.
  7. This was a great article! Too bad it is not in copy mode so those, like me, can have for future purchasing aides. i just got a subscription to your magazine and I love it.

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