As of late, I don’t seem to be getting any quality prints from my slides. I’ve tried different labs and I’m still getting poor quality. The prints aren’t even close to what I’m seeing at the light table. Colors aren’t saturated, images aren’t sharp, etc. I’m still using the same Fujichrome Velvia and my techniques haven’t changed. My labs don’t seem to give me any answers. I’m shooting digitally as well, but is it possible that, in this digital age, printing processes have changed? Do labs not want to deal with slides anymore?
Most professionals recommend sharpening a digital image before printing. I like a sharp image and use either a tripod or flash to improve the capture results. I feel using sharpening prior to printing makes the final print, in some cases, look unnatural. Why do the professionals use sharpening, and should I be using it?
I’m using a Nikon D70 with 60mm and 105mm Micro-Nikkor lenses for wildflower photography. Lately, I’ve become interested in lichen photography, which sometimes requires magnification up to 2X or 3X life-size. I don’t believe that extension tubes will work with the digital camera. Do I need to go back to my film cameras? Or is the alternative to use the Canon system with a Digital Rebel and the MP-E65/2.8 1X to 5X macro lens?
I have many film images on 35mm and even more on 6x7cm film. I could never afford to get very many drum-scanned and printed. I want all the detail I’m used to seeing in prints from 6×7 images. That’s why I moved to 6×7 in the first place. I note that Epson has a flatbed, V750-M PRO, that William Neill now uses, and Nikon has the 9000 ED desktop scanner for medium-format film that you’ve used. I’m looking to print my 6×7 images at 16×20 or 20×24. Will either of these scanners serve my needs?
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I have a Tamron 28-300 lens that I’ve been using with great success on my film camera. When I use it on my newer digital camera, there’s a softness to the images. Is the lens not good for my digital camera? Is there another lens as versatile as the 28-300mm that would give me tack-sharp images?
Digital cameras have a linear response to light. Adobe, in its tutorials on Camera Raw, suggests “exposing to the right” in order to maximize the midtones and shadow information recorded by the camera. What’s the best practice you suggest, and how does one go about determining the right “exposure” when using Raw capture?
I’m fascinated by strong silhouettes with the sun in the background when it’s partially or totally obscured by foreground objects, such as trees. For example, in your picture of the Baobab tree from Africa at sunset, the tree is dark, yet detail is maintained in the tips of the branches, and there’s beautiful color in the sunset. What’s the secret to maintaining detail, while at the same time obtaining a proper exposure and rich colors? So far I’ve simply been bracketing like crazy and hoping for the best.
You mentioned the Singh-Ray variable neutral-density filter (Vari-ND) in a previous OP column. If I have my information correct, it appears to be made only in a 77mm mount. I don’t know if I can find an adapter to mount it on my lenses with smaller filter sizes, but if I can, will it work properly with such an adapter?